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Showing posts with label day trip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label day trip. Show all posts

Friday, 12 January 2018

Sintra and Cabo da Roca: a fantastic day trip from Lisbon

Blinded by the beauty of this place!
If you have only three days in Lisbon, one deserves to be devoted to Sintra. Situated just outside of Portugal's capital, this small town is home to some of the most magnificent and magical palaces you will ever see. Further away from Sintra, another unmissable sight is Cabo da Roca, the end of the world, the Westernmost point of the European continent, which makes me shiver just thinking about it. Read our story and follow our advice to enjoy an amazing day of incredible sceneries and fairy-tale sights.

Where
From Lisbon, Sintra is some 30 km away, and Cabo da Roca approximately 20 km more.
Cabo da Roca - Sintra - Lisbon

How to get there
We were really lucky with our local friends, who came with us by train from Lisbon to Sintra, then drove by car from Sintra to Cabo da Roca, and back to Lisbon. It is easy to travel from Lisbon to Sintra by train from Rossio station in approximately 30 minutes. The Sintra train station is located below the hill, and bus 434 will take you to the palaces on top of the hill (it's a long way! Don't walk it!). Public transportation from Sintra to Cabo da Roca exists (bus 403), but it looked quite crowded and complicated; to be honest, the countryside and hills are so gorgeous that we just recommend renting a car for 24 hours, and enjoying your freedom on the scenic road. Another possibility is to join an organized tour, which will avoid you the hassle of working out the public transportation and will provide your with more interesting facts and information during the day.

What to see and how long it takes
There are so many palaces and castles and parks in Sintra! We spent almost one hour and a half at Palacio da Pena, admiring the exotic architecture and decoration, the gorgeous tiles and bright colours, reading its complex history (well written in English), appreciating the intricate carvings of the interior. We were absolutely stunned by the diverse architectural and decorative styles, joining gothic, Hispano-Moresque, Manueline, Romantic, Rococo, adding a bit or catholic heritage from when the building was a monastery, some islamic influences, and even a touch of Disney-ish bavarian castle. It was, after all, renovated in the 1850s by King Ferdinand II (Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha) and Queen Maria II, and later his second wife Elise Hensler, Duchess of Edla. King Ferdinand II and Ferdinand Maximilian of Austria were distantly related - Palacio da Pena and Miramare Castle in Trieste (Italy) were built/renovated by these men in the same period, I wonder if they influenced each other.

The colors are just so vivid and Darek is just so royal. #nofilter

I'm telling you, Palacio da Pena #nofilter !
Original 16th century monastery church, with Gothic nave (16th century),
Manueline vaulted ribbed arches in apse and choir (17th century),
and of course, "azulejo" tiles

Bedroom of the King, later the Queen.
Walls and vaulted arches decorated in the Neo-Moorish style by Januário Correia.
Canopied bed (17th century) and Revival furniture.

The Arabic room, sitting room for visitors.
The Islamic architecture creates an illusion of space
Simply stunning! 
We walked for approximately 45 minutes in the wild and excessive garden, and maybe 45 more minutes in the woods down the hill, under the Moorish Castle and back to the town. The same amount of time can be easily spent in the wild and charming garden of Quinta da Regaleira (which unfortunately we did not visit), which means that these two Palaces, plus some lunch, easily take the whole day. Knowing we would not have time, I did not even start to research on the town of Sintra itself, and on the museums in the centre.

Surprises in the park of Palacio da Pena

Walking under the Moorish Castle
As far as Cabo da Roca is concerned, just make sure you get there at least one hour or so before the sunset: the parking is large, the cliffs are long and spacious, but it's a famous spot, so it will be crowded.

Random lady and shocking cliffs

Beautiful thoughtful friend, still shocking cliffs

The Westernmost point of continental Europe!
Not sure if this is Camoes' best line ever...

With our guide for the day
Avoid the crowd
Again, choosing January was a smart idea. The weather was fantastic, with fresh air, warm sun and a deep blue sky: quite an exception of the infamously bad weather that hits Sintra, a very humid and rain-oriented microclimate. We went around Palacio da Pena in the morning with a very small crowd, and had to queue for a picture only on the fantastic passage above the colorful walls. The restaurants in Sintra were quite crowded, but the service was fast. Keep in mind that it's a very popular place, so a cup of coffee on the terrace of the Palace will obviously be overpriced!
In Cabo da Roca there were many families, and groups of Italians and Asians: you will need some patience before you can take your shot with the monument marking the westernmost point of mainland Europe, or your new profile picture while staring at the immensity of the ocean. I cannot even begin to imagine how crowded it must be in the summer! On the other hand, on a long June/July day with sunset at 9pm, you do have more daylight hours to enjoy the scenery.

More info
The website Sintra Portugal was very helpful and complete. It offers good recommendations, for example, do not rent a car on summer weekends! Considering the size of the roads in Sintra and in the region, it is definitely valuable advice.


Sunday, 13 August 2017

Hike to Visegrad, a day trip from Budapest

Hello! Thank you for stopping by!
We have moved this article to our improved and updated blog. Come and read the best itinerary for an easy Visegrad hike!


Fellow traveller, do you have a spare day while in Budapest? Fellow local, do you crave some time in the nature? Visegrad is the perfect destination for a day trip! And if you follow our instructions, it won’t even require a big effort or a big budget.
The Danube Bend from Visegrad Castle
Located some 50 km north of Budapest, Visegrad is a small town that offers a gorgeous view of the Danube bend and the surrounding hills, many hiking trails and fun activities, and interesting insights in the history of Hungary and Europe inside the Visegrad Castle.

When is it best to go? How long does it take?
Spring, summer and autumn are best to enjoy the beautiful scenery of hills and river. Just avoid a cloudy or foggy day! Calculate some 8 hours, but if you hurry or bring lunch with you, you could make it in 6.
Check out the opening hours of Zsitvay Lookout Tower and of Visegrad Castle.

Get ready and bring:
  • comfortable clothing and shoes for the trail
  • water (there are some fountains to fill your bottle from) and snacks
  • Hungarian forints, as credit cards and other currencies may not be accepted
  • a guidebook/notes/info on your phone about the history of the castle
  • download the offline area on Google Maps and star-save the highlights

How much does it cost?
As of June 2017:
  • HUF 840 bus from Budapest
  • HUF 420 snack
  • HUF 400 Zsitvay lookout tower
  • HUF 1400 Visegrad Castle without wax museum
  • HUF 3390 nice lunch in town centre
  • HUF 420 ferry across the Danube river
  • HUF 1120 train back to Budapest
TOTAL: HUF 7990 / 300 = 26.6333 EUR
Or HUF 4600 / 300 = 15.3333 EUR without lunch

Energy-saving itinerary:
Our super-knowledgeable friend and tour guide Adam Marot of Behind Budapest prepared an easy itinerary: by taking the bus to the top of the hill, the effort was minimal!

We started from Budapest at the Ujpest Bus Station (map) (north of Pest) where we took bus 883 by Volanbusz (timetable) at 10.15. After one and a half hour, we got off at stop Visegradi Bobpalya, which saved us all the effort of climbing up the hill from the town of Visegrad, by the river.

We had a quick snack with coffee and Hungarian bread “Pogacsa” and walked up to the Zsitvay Lookout tower (map), a nice stone building erected in 1933. From the meadow in front of it, it’s just hills and birds chirping! Being on top of a hill 378 meters high, we loved the breathtaking view from the top of the tower, of river, hills and forests, islands and towns, and most of all, our next stop, the Castle of Visegrad.

Zsitvay lookout tower


Climbing up

From the Zsitvay lookout tower: the Danube bend and the Visegrad castle
Of course, the main road can take you down to the Castle, but we chose instead a lovely, peaceful trail in the woods, very easy to follow as it is marked on trees and stones with a white flag with a horizontal blue stripe, direction “Visegradi Fellegvar”.

In 10-15 minutes, we reached the Visegrad Castle (map). Being a Sunday in early June, there were many school kids on a day hike, but luckily we entered the castle around lunchtime, so it wasn’t too crowded.
Before reaching the viewpoint by the walls, there are already fun medieval attractions, like arrow shooting, throwing a spiked rusty weapon to a wood log, a trainer with a falcon, and two royal seats with suitable clothing ready for a costume picture.
The view from the walls is very picturesque: the Danube river flows peaceful and wide, confident among lush hills and red-roofed villages, and behind you the ruins of the castle walls rise high and bold. Thanks to a rising Hungarian flag, it is also a very patriotic spot!

Hungarian pride!

Access to the castle
As there are not many explanations available in English, it is worth reading up a little ahead, or bringing a guidebook with you. The first Citadel was built by King Béla IV in 1246 because of the Mongol invasions, to protect the valley and the commercial route. It was expanded into a larger fortress during the Anjou era, and King Charles Robert moved the royal court here in 1323. This King also organized a Congress with the kings of Bohemia and Poland to solve issues among them, open new commercial routes, and create an alliance against the Habsburgs. The Castle was left to ruins in the 18th century, when the Habsburgs ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Excavations and reconstructions started in 1871; some parts of the walls are visibly new, made of concrete and bricks, giving the visitor a real sense of what remained and what is rebuilt.


Inside the Visegrad Castle

Gorgeous view of the Danube Bend from Visegrad Castle
We took our time to explore the different halls, levels and viewpoints. At 3.30 pm we were on our way, through the woods again, downhill towards Visegrad. We passed by a little chapel called Kalvaria Kapolna (map) and reached the city centre at the cutest staircase overlooking the red roofs, right behind the church.

We enjoyed a resting lunch at a pizzeria right by the main church, and then headed to out last attraction. The Solomon tower (map) is the Low castle, located on a small hill by the river, where the walls started to rise up to the High castle. Also here, the recent restorations show very clearly what remained of the original tower and what was rebuilt; unfortunately, the result is not the most beautiful medieval tower ever. Anyway, it is quite picturesque and the view is again gorgeous.

The renovated side of Solomon Tower

The old side of Solomon Tower
We decided to take the train back, so we had to cross the Danube. The ferry from Visegrad to Nagymaros (map) offered us the best panorama to close our hike: peaceful river, steep hill and ruins on the top, a true postcard! And finally, a 50-minutes train ride back (schedule) from Nagymaros to Budapest Nyugati Station (map). 


View of Visegrad Castle on top of the hill,
and Solomon Tower down below,
from the ferry
What else?
  • The bobsled track close to Visegrad Castle must be fun!
  • The city centre may deserve 10 minutes for a stroll
  • In the surroundings there is a spa called Lepence, for some relax.

Did you know this place? Did you try our itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

Friday, 9 June 2017

Easy hike in Budapest: the Kaan Karoly lookout tower

Hello! Thank you for coming here.
We have updated this post on our new blog: https://travellingsunglasses.com/budapest-hike-kaan-karoly-lookout-tower/
Come read the new version!

The Kaán Károly lookout is a wooden tower built in a peaceful woods on top of Nagy-Hárs-hegy hill, on the Buda side of Budapest. Reaching is it easy, quick and rewarding, which makes it a great activity for locals and travellers alike, to take a break from the capital or to see it from a different point of view. Thanks to its advantageous location North-West of the city, the panorama includes lush woods, busy Budapest, the quiet towns in the nearby valleys, and misty layers of hills disappearing into the horizon.
 The Kaan Karoly lookout tower
The Kaan Karoly lookout tower
Get ready with:
-       comfortable shoes for the stony path in the woods
-       one/two more layers of clothing than in the city, e.g. a jumper/jacket/scarf
-       at least 2 bus tickets (one per way from Szell Kalman Ter)
-       charged phone/flashlight if you plan to come back in the darkness
-       Google maps: search and save Kaán Karoly kilátó (“lookout” in Hungarian)

How long does it take?
From Szell Kalman Ter, 15 minutes by bus, 20 minutes of easy walk, enough time to admire the scenery, the same time to go back, plus bonus time for pictures, videos, snacks, and back to the Pest side: approximately 2-2,5 hours, up to 4 if you stop for lunch, probably a whole day if you organize a barbecue (see end of the post).

When is it best to go?
The landscape is gorgeous, be it cloudy, sunny, snowy, and in any season (ok, perhaps not under the rain). Bus connections allow also going there for the sunset! Keep in mind that temperatures will be lower than in the city and it can get quite windy. The price of the gorgeous foliage is a possibly muddy path, and a snowy panorama will require suitable shoes.

How much does it cost?
Nothing! The tower is always open and there is no ticket fee. The bus ride is included in your 24 or 72-hour ticket, otherwise a single ticket comes at 350 HUF (1,20 eur ca.) and a package of 10 comes at 3000 HUF (10 eur ca.).

Itinerary:

 Google maps from Szell Kalman Ter square to the lookout tower
from Szell Kalman Ter square to the lookout tower

Google maps from Szépjuhászné to the lookout tower
From Szépjuhászné to the lookout tower

Depart from Széll Kálmán Tér (Square) with bus 22, 22A or 222 in the direction of Budakeszi. On the 15-minute ride, the scenery will change gradually from residential areas to woods. Keep an eye out on the left for the cute trams!

The path from the bus stop
Get off the bus at Szépjuhászné stop, which is also one of the stops of the lovely Children’s Railway, complete with a small restaurant.
Different routes around the hill will lead you up. The path is wide, not too steep (tough people go up running or cycling!), hard enough to make you deserve that slice of cake later :) 

We set out on a late Sunday afternoon with our friends Adam, who is a local tour guide addicted to the outdoors, and Lars, who was more into the final reward (pancakes!). It was amazing to be able to leave the city behind us and be immersed in a forest so quickly! Considering our long hours in the office, or the intense city-sightseeing programs we prepare for friends and family visiting us, this place wins a spot in our Top 5 of relaxing places in Budapest.

Adventurous stairs!
The tower, a wooden structure with stone foundations, looks like it belongs to another era. The stairs may look steep and narrow, but the scenery gets better and better until the 5th floor, when suddenly your gaze embraces Budapest, the Parliament and Castle hill, lush woods on rolling slopes, peaceful towns in the valleys, and layers of hills showing and hiding until the horizon.

The atmosphere was quite intimate as it was only the four of us and another couple. The tower made some squeaking noises in the wind, but nothing to be worried about! We spent a while taking pictures, videos, time-lapses of the clouds, and watching the rain move on top of Budapest. The scenery is really magnificent, and so many details slowly pop up once you look closely: a green dome in the middle of the forest, blooming branches, fields and trees of countless shades. I did not expect to be able to see the Parliament building so clearly from this distance! On a nearby hill, you can see Elizabeth tower, another lovely destination for a half-day hike or a trip with the Children’s Railway.

The rain washed Budapest from right to left 
Dramatic sky by Darek

Misty horizon by Giulia

We miscalculated our time and our clothing: at 7pm we were already done with our pictures (if you can ever be done under an ever-changing cloudy sky when the sun is trying to peep out), and shivering in shorts and light shirts. At 7.30 we decided it was not worth waiting until 8.30 for such an uncertain sunset, so we headed down and jumped on a bus just as the rain started to pour.

We will definitely go back with better conditions! Nearby the tower, to the right, there is a clearing with benches and a stone circle on the ground suitable for a barbecue, perfect for a hot summer evening.

Do you know this beautiful place? Do you plan to go? Let us know in the comments :) Cheers!

Tuesday, 21 October 2014

Day trip: Szentendre

Sunny lazy Saturday in mid-October: Saint Andrew, or Szentendre in Hungarian, is the perfect destination. This picturesque town 20 km north of Budapest features the colours of the Mediterranean and the grandeur of the Danube, all together in a tiny old town of meandering alleys too narrow for cars. It's perfect to spend a few lazy hours outside of the capital, in a blissful feeling of holiday. Unfortunately Darek was busy, so this was a solo Giulia trip.

No need to get up too early: from Batthyány Square and Margit Híd Bridge stations, in Buda, the suburban railway HEV will take you there in just 50 minutes for 600 forints (as a suburban supplement: first buy or show your normal bus/metro ticket to the ticket office and then ask for the 2-way supplement outside the boundaries of Budapest). Szentendre is the last stop.

The scenery is slowly changing, from large apartment blocks to small (and a bit shabby) family houses. From the train station in Szentendre, walk down an underpass and straight on, as if the train would go on, to reach the city centre in a few minutes.

Szentendre is famous for the Serbian and baroque architecture and bright colours of the old town, for the diverse churches and faiths practised, and for the ridiculous amount of art galleries and museums opening at every corner - it is called "the artists' village" for a reason!

The baroque architecture is the heritage of the grand development that happened during the 18th century, when many Serbian and Greek families established their businesses here, using the Danube as a connection. The existing wooden buildings were turned into stone and painted with vivid colours, just like back in their lost hometowns.  I love the main square "Fő tér", triangular and tilted between the hill and the Danube, so unusual, colourful and traditional. To your right, the Danube, in front to the left, the main church, and in the distance in front of you, the shopping street "Bogdányi utca".

There's a very narrow passage going from the main square up towards the church, to the left: half-way, stop for one of the best "langos" you will ever have (typical hungarian deep fried bread). I took a classic one with cheese and sour cream for less than 2 euros and headed back to the main square and down to the Danube, actually to a smaller stream (there's a bifurcation up north). The sun was warm, my belly was full, luckily all the benches were busy, otherwise I would have slept all the way until evening! If you're not into super-deep-fried bread, along the Danube there are two nice restaurants, both mixing Hungarian and foreign traditions: a Greek, "Görög kancso", and "Fantázia Étterem".

I continued my exploration with a coffee at the Kovacs Margit Museum of Ceramics, which has a lovely back patio. DO NOT buy the map/guide of Szentendre by "Idea", or at least first make sure that the numbers of the restaurants in the map have been corrected.

Walk up to the main Catholic Church to admire the scenery: the peaceful Danube, the red tile roofs, people chatting and eating pancakes, in a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere. I also spied on a courtyard where a bride was catching her breath in the middle of the wedding lunch! As white and classy as St. John can be, just turn around it to head over to the bright red baroque Serbian church, a bit spooky from the outside of its slightly wild garden, but soothing and enchanting when near it.

The city centre is so small and the map so big that I got lost and over-walked... To find the house of my dreams! There it was, down this winding alley "Kigyo utca": white and curvy, abandoned but not ruined, with a round hobbit window facing out and a large wooden gate hiding the patio. I could already imagine the twisting stairs inside, the eccentric furniture to fill the odd spaces, a cute garden outside to play cards and watch grandchildren play... I felt as if I was in a flash-forward in a movie!

Even better, the alley ends on the shopping street of Bogdányi utca, yes it's full of tourists, but there is also the Labirintus Restaurant and Wine Museum: excellent Hungarian restaurant, in the underground gallery it also hosts wine tastings for as little as 1700 HUF (6 euros) for 5 types of wine.

I spent some more time trying to work out what was where on that deceiving map: the Vajda Lajos studio on Péter Pál utca, close to the Danube, has a beautiful hidden patio that made me think of the historical and classy version of the house of Zorro. On a side street there is a house is completely hidden by ivy, except for the shiny letterbox, and if you try to open a gate you might actually find it open! I loved these of sneaking a pic on to somebody else's life, taking away this fraction of their home with me, imagining how they live and how I could live in such a place. Last but not least, an energetic lady drove past me on an epic Fiat 126, more famous here as the Kis Polski!

Just when I was about to head back to the station, I noticed a group of people heading further on and up, behind the red Serbian Church. Where are they going? Well, half-way up the slope of Bartok Béla utca there is the cutest little coffee house, Dálmát Kavézó, and on top of the road there is an opening with an even better view to the Danube and the village underneath! The changing leaves and the lovebirds benches added the finishing touch.


Next time: cake at the Számos Cukrasda coffee on the main square towards the station, nutella crepe from the langos place... and perhaps even some art and history, since most museums are open only from mid March to mid October! Also, the Outdoor Museum of Ethnography deserves a visit, to see the traditional buildings and lifestyles of Hungary all in the same place, but it is a bit outside of town and will need some organization.

Sunday, 14 September 2014

Croatia, Split: seaside edition

Croatia is famous for its transparent sea, clean pebbles beach and intimate bays. During our holiday in Split, we went to three of them! It was such a positive change from the Rimini Italian beach I am used to: in Croatia you may have to walk a bit (and on those pebbles it's not exactly comfortable) but it is not hard to find a hidden and secluded place to have some quiet.

As we were staying on Marjan hill, we started by exploring that area. The first beach we went to is Kašuni beach (map), located on the south-west tip of Marjan hill. We walked until there (there is also a bus going there, n. 12), it was a beautiful scenery of wild gardens and woods of olive trees. When the road takes you down to the sea level, you get to a beautiful bay with a couple of bars at the beginning. Walk to the right until the middle of the bay to find some quiet and to enjoy the view of the islands in front, and start wondering about leaving your job and spend your life sailing :)

The second beach we went to, after steaming for a very hot morning in the centre of Split, is Bačvice beach (map), famous for its sandy shores and the "Picigin" ball game. It was quite disappointing: extremely crowded (maybe because it was a Sunday), the sand was actually dark and heavy and seemed dirty... perhaps I had higher Caribbean expectations? You can get there with a short walk from the city centre, and keep walking bay after bay until you find a free spot. There are lots of stands of sandwiches and fries, some restaurants and bars, and tables to play chessWe finally settled down at the Ovčice beach and had a nice afternoon, watching funny and quiet kids playing (a relief for my ears used to shouting Italian kids) and swimming over to some rocks large enough to climb, lay down on and sunbathe. At sundown it was much better


The last beach we went to was the one right in front of our place, Jezinac (or maybe Kastelet, they are next to each other): pebbles and clear water, a view on the mountains in the back and the islands in front, and a bar with nasty waitresses nearby. We even bathed there under the moon on the last night!! The path alongside the sea, from the city centre, is magical.


We also devoted one day to a catamaran excursion with Summer Blues. Among the wide range of choices on the internet and on the pier of the Riva downtown, this seemed the best value for money: a day-long excursion 9-19h on a brand new catamaran for 30-40 people, with sandwiches, salad, fruit included, beer and soft drinks all-you-can-drink. The itinerary start from the port on the Riva of Split, takes us first to a bay in Brac island, then a bay in the tiny islands of Pakleni, around 15h a short visit to the town of Hvar, and a final bath in a bay in Šolta before returning to the Riva of Split. The DJ put on a great soundtrack of every possible genre and all we had to do was lay down on the deck, sunbathe and sip beer, or jump down and explore the clean sea with the goggles available. Bathing in the cool and clean water was such an enjoyable feeling! Somebody of the group even went to the "shores" of the islands, but they were quite rocky and required climbing (on the catamaran there was an emergency kit for cuts). The panorama of the islands was so authentic: little colorful houses hidden in tiny and deep bays, yachts and row boats coming in and out, trees coming down to the sea, larger towns climbing the hills like Hvarand this peaceful Mediterranean feeling over it all. It was so windy and pleasant that we got quite a sunburnt! We were considering a cheaper solution: taking the ferry to Brac island and then driving around, or taking public transportation to the Zlatni Rat beach, but in the end we were very happy and satisfied with our choice.



Destinations for the next trip: Zlatni Rat beach on Brac Island, Trogir, maybe Sibenik, and of course, Dubrovnik!

Saturday, 2 August 2014

Budapest: exploring Romai Part


Where is Romai Part?
A hot summer Saturday is the perfect time to explore the green and fresh outskirts of Budapest. After hearing so much about it, we decided to go to Romai Part, the Roman beach of the Danube, on Northern Buda side. To make it feel even more like a summer excursion, we even took a boat instead of the usual public transportation :)
Ferry n.13 
The boat service is part of the public transportation of BKK, line 13 during the weekend.
It leaves from southern Pest and takes you straight up to northern Pest or Buda, but it takes quite a long time, so we went by tram up to Jaszai Mari ter (Margaret Bridge, Pest side) and took the boat from there. 750 forints each for an hour-long peaceful cruise, passing by Margaret Island, stopping at Nepsziget, and in the meantime making friends with a couple of two year old incredibly blond twins and their incredibly positive (and tired) parents. On the boat there is room downstairs, but we stayed out, on the benches in the sun. What a relaxing feeling! 


Arrival at Budai Part: the real beach is quite narrow, partly sandy and partly cobbles, stretching down south and north of the dock (which is not even a dock, it's a boat-restaurant). 
Romai Part dock
A few meters up from the river, on a quiet road you will find tons of fish and chips restaurants with their tables outside, bars, playgrounds for children, bike rentals, canoe rentals -our next trip: rental for a day, for a canoe for 2, around 3000 forints! My arms are tired already!- with a lovely and relaxed atmosphere. I appreciate so much the low tone of voice of Hungarians!
A second breakfast was in order, and palacsinta (pancakes) were only 150 forints, how to say no?

At this point the weather had turned to a confused sunny-couldy-rainy, but the trees on the road over the kiosks were covering us. Walking north along the street we finally found what all our friends had recommended: Fellini Kultur Bisztro. And we were not disappointed!
Every restaurant and kiosk has a very simple look, no extra decorations, efficient and to the point, and quite cheap. On the contrary, Fellini features a bar inside a gipsy wagon, flowers and extravagant decorations, little colorful striped deckchairs on the beach, a small platform with books and toys for children -inside a wooden pirate chest- and an open kitchen where the chef looks like a pirate! They have Belgian beer, fresh cocktails, liters of lemonade, and their food is prepared with care. 
Fellini Bisztró
We got a Belgian honey beer, sat on the deck chairs with our feet almost in the Danube, and relaxed to French and Portuguese music, slow and melancholic, only interrupted by Forrest Gump's soundtrack. What a lovely place!

When we got hungry, we shared a fried fish with chips in one of the "main" kiosks, for 2000 huf. It was big enough for both of use, but it is quite expensive if you want one each... 
We came back by bus 106 until Arpad Híd on Pest side, and then all the way down to the city center.

Next time: more pancakes, more sunbathing, and renting a canoe!