5 things you didn't know about Rome

One could spend a lifetime in Rome, and still have unticked boxes of amazing attractions in this wonderful city. But for us, weekend travellers, time is of the essence! Whether you are planning your first visit to the eternal city, or if you had already been to the main sights like us, have a look at the five special tips we learned during the 48 hours we spent there in February.

Lesser known attraction: Terme di Caracalla

Of course, the Colosseum and the Vatican are the must-visit. But what other attraction can provide a window into the Ancient Roman world, possibly without the crazy crowd? The Baths of Caracalla (map). This incredible thermal establishment, built in 212-216 AD, included pools of different temperatures, saunas, gyms, a garden, and a library. It was able to welcome up to 6000 people in a day! Modern excavations and restoration started in 1824; some of the sculptures and mosaics are now displayed in famous museums.

Nowadays, it's just shocking to raise your eyes to the top of the brick walls, soaring above grand arches, and imagine the domes that used to cover them almost two thousand years ago.

TOP TIP: Get the Virtual Reality guide! With only 7 euro per person, you get to listen to interesting explanations (available in different languages) while admiring in the visor a rendering of how the Baths used to look like: the marble floor, the sculptures and fountains, the pools and mosaics... everything is so much more real. It makes such a difference! (In February we didn't need to book, but during spring and summer perhaps it's safer to book it online).

The size of the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla is mind-blowing!

Look around with the Virtual Reality guide... 

... this is what you see inside the visor!

Happy travellers :)

Authentic local food: pasta alla carbonara

Did you know that Carbonara is Rome's typical pasta? The original recipe includes egg yolk, guanciale (a specific type of cured meat), pecorino cheese, and pepper. I know you will be tempted by pizza and pasta and plenty of other delicacies from all over Italy, but carbonara is the one thing you should taste in Rome!

TOP TIP: Plenty of restaurants cook excellent pasta alla carbonara. We recommend Tonnarello, Roma sparita, and Le mani in pasta (map), all three in Trastevere (we had lunch at the latter, where also other types of pasta were absolutely delicious). In general, it's safer to book a table in advance.

An enormous, mouth-watering dish of pasta alla carbonara
@ Le mani in Pasta, Rome

Sightseeing tip: walking

Even though Rome is really large, it is absolutely worth walking around, instead of using public transportation. You just need comfortable shoes, and you will not regret it! In between the attractions you will choose to visit, you will be surprised with endless fountains, sculptures, churches, squares, beautiful buildings and picturesque streets. Walking is the perfect way to enjoy the atmosphere of Rome!

TOP TIP: If you do not wish to take part to a walking tour, at least plan your itinerary cleverly, as a succession of sights in a reasonable line. Start from your accommodation and create a circle; or proceed in a line and come back by public transport; or reach the farthest attraction by public transport and come back on foot (example: our itinerary by night, perfect to admire the Forum and the ruins, the Altar of the Fatherland, and then enjoy some nightlife at Campo de' Fiori).

Golden hour at Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden)

Golden hour at the Colosseum

The Imperial Forum by night is magical

The Trajan Column and a Baroque church behind. Incredible history!

Off the beaten track: Trastevere

Just South of Vatican city is the beautiful neighbourhood of Trastevere - literally "on the other side of the Tiber river". It's the perfect escape from the noise and crowd of the city centre: quiet cobblestoned alleys with laundry hanged, hip bars at night, a great view from Gianicolo Hill, and of course plenty of magnificent churches and villas to admire. 

TOP TIP: Craving some more time away from the crowd? Consider a bike tour! If we had just one more day in Rome, we would have gone on Via Appia Antica, "the Appian way", or to see the ancient aqueducts at Parco degli Acquedotti. They look really epic!

View of Isola Tiberina from Ponte Palatino.
From here you will see also the unusual Ponte Rotto, the broken bridge!

Practical tip: Roma pass

Enjoying a trip for us means finding the sweet spot between plans and spontaneity. The Roma pass is the most convenient tool for this. It includes unlimited transportation on buses, metro and tram; free access to one or two museums; discounted entrance to any other museum; and lots of other benefits. We already knew we wanted to use the entrance for the Baths of Caracalla, and we already knew more or less how many trips on public transport we were going to make; for the rest of the 48 hours we spent in Rome, the Roma pass created a wonderful feeling of freedom and open possibilities, as we knew that whatever we would choose to do, we would make use of the discounts.

TOP TIP: I recommend walking, but then I also recommend the Roma pass for the public transport. Why the contradiction? Well, public transport in Rome does not have a wonderful reputation. Metro stops can be closed for malfunctioning, buses can be late for traffic, protests, visits of public officials... So overall, don't count on public transport too much, especially if your schedule is tight: be ready with a plan B.

Hop on tram 2 to reach MAXXI,
the National Museum of 21st Century Arts,
planned by Zaha Hadid.

Are you planning a trip to Rome? Let us know in the comments if you have other questions, and we'll be happy to help you!

Travel Plan 2018: Sicily!

Sicily is our travel plan for July 2018. Nothing better than Italian sea, sun and food! Unfortunately, we only have 5-6 days, so we'll have to do a lot of choosing. There is so much to see, do and eat in this island!

Let's start practical: from Treviso airport, there's Ryanair daily flights to both Catania and Palermo. From Venice, a daily flight to both Palermo and Catania with Alitalia (according to Rome2rio), and on Mondays to Catania with Volotea. We'll see how much they are and how much stuff we need to pack! What about flying back to Budapest? Wizzair flies from Catania on Saturday - this is already sooo expensive, but it could be useful to let us recover on Sunday before going back to work - or we could have a Ryanair layover in Treviso on Sunday. Ryanair also flies from Palermo to Budapest on Sunday and is cheaper (at the moment).

Because this is the decision to take: which side of Sicily do we choose? Palermo and the West, or Catania and the East? That is the question. It is such a struggle to open google images and check out the Duomo of Monreale, the streets of Palermo, the beaches of Favignana island, the Temples in Agrigento, the Etna vulcano, the sea of Eolian islands... Come oooon, how can we choose? It's supposed to be a holiday, and I'm already stressed :D

No, focus: in July, it will be roasting hot. A great plan should feature a lot of relaxing beaches and sea, some interesting sights and history, and very little stressful Italian driving. I'm not even mentioning food, as it will be there with us every couple of hours without making any effort. Strategic accommodation is needed in 1 or 2 towns.

If we choose Palermo, the highlights could be:

• Palermo itself, with centuries of history and amazing attractions, like the Palace of the Normans, Cappella Palatina, the Cathedral, and of course much more
• The Duomo of Monreale
• The beach of Mondello or Isola delle Femmine
• To the West, San Vito lo Capo, a 2-hour drive from Palermo
• More to the West, Favignana Island, reachable from Trapani by ferry
• Or to the East, Cefalú

Cappella Palatina in Palermo
By Fintan Corrigan of http://friendly-hotels.com -
Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=35670228

The Gulf and beach of Mondello
By Andrea Calcagno from PALERMO, Italia - il golfo di Mondello, CC BY-SA 2.0,
 https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24992690

By Roberto Fontana from Mantova, Italia - San Vito Lo Capo,
CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=24319385

Favignana Island
By ChrisO at the English language Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=864748

On the other hand, around Catania, we would visit:

• Catania, itself, with sights from roman, medieval and baroque age
• The Etna vulcano
• Taormina, its ancient Greek theatre, the beach and Isola Bella
• Wine tasting of local Etna Rosso
• More to the North, the gorgeous Eolian islands, with another vulcano
• To the South instead, Siracusa and architectural marvels

Southern flank of Mount Etna showing lateral cones and flow from eruption of 2001.
By Wilson44691 - Own work, CC0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=26777320

The Greek Theater in Taormina
By Evan Erickson - Own work, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5744732

By Giovanni from Catania, Sicily - Eolian Islands from top of Vulcano island,
CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2139853

Duomo Square in Siracusa
By Tango7174 - Own work, GFDL,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=15545258

And what about Agrigento and its incredible Greek temples?

Temple of Concordia
By General Cucombre from New York, USA - Valle dei Templi 3214
Uploaded by Markos90, CC BY 2.0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22793141

It's very motivating that many itineraries available online, like this by Frommers, this by Sicilian Secret Tours, this by the Telegraph, this by Lonely Planet,  or this generic advice on Eastern Sicily by the Guardian, include A LOT of sights, which makes me hope that the distances are manageable and the crowd is not overwhelming.

More research is needed. But we are so excited! Have you ever visited Sicily? What do you advise? Let us know! :)

Mantova, Italy: what to see and do

The second part of our nostalgic trip to Italy took us to Mantova, the town where my grandmother, aunt and uncle live. As a child, for me it was the town of shopping, multi-screen cinema, and unbearable summer heat; later, it became the beloved setting of the largest and most famous literature festival in Italy, Festivaletteratura, where I was a proud intern for one edition, and one of the reasons why we came: the festival brings such a special and energetic vibe to the city for 5 days, with hundreds of events in famous and hidden venues . Now and for the rest of my adult life, it will be a charming little Italian town where I will feel at home, but that will always surprise me with a detail I had not noticed before.

Mantova in 10+3 sights

You could probably spend just a day in the small city centre that blossomed during the Renaissance, in the 15th and 16th century. However, as every respectable UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the numerous hidden gems can keep you there easily for more days. Key practical advice: comfortable shoes, a scarf for ladies who wish to enter churches, and patience with the weather, as it can be very foggy during the winter and terribly hot during the summer.

The simplest sightseeing stroll is a straight line across the square-ish city centre, towards the lakes that surround three sides of it.

Start at the Teatro Sociale (map 1), where the romantic "Rio" Canal connects Superior and Inferior lakes, turning the downtown into an island.

Walk along Corso Umberto, a (almost) pedestrian street with porticoes on both sides, boutiques and cafés, as you start to imagine how it must have been living there 600 years ago. Small Piazza Andrea Mantegna square opens your view to the imposing yet perfectly fitting Basilica di Sant'Andrea (map 2), a masterpiece of Renaissance art and architecture by Leon Battista Alberti and later Filippo Juvarra. Go inside to admire the mind-blowing size of its vault, its late 18th-century decorations, and the incredible height of its dome, all gracefully hidden and adjusted from the outside.

Sant'Andrea Basilica façade

Sant'Andrea Basilica interior

Continue by the side of the church to Piazza delle Erbe (map 3). BONUS: check out the ground floor of the building right opposite the bookstore/infopoint at the corner of the church: under the columns of the porticoes, carved tiles show the items sold in the store during the Renaissance!

Beautiful Piazza delle Erbe showcases the Rotonda Church (map 4), the most ancient church in the city (you can "buy" a brick!), and the astronomical clock built in 1473 on the tower of the Palazzo della Ragione (map 5). On Thursdays, the market fills up the square and the surrounding streets.

Astronomical clock tower and Rotonda Church

Keep the square to your right, past the Palazzo del Podestá, to small Piazza Broletto Square (map 6). BONUS: take the side street to the left to reach small Piazza Leon Battista Alberti square at the back of the Basilica, where you can admire the naked bricks of its side, right below the stunning dome.

Keep going under the vault to reach the main square, Piazza Sordello Square (map 7), long and rectangular, surrounded by a frame of historical buildings that have seen 6 or 7 centuries pass by. In front of you, the Duomo (map 8), a very geometric cathedral, not as magnificent as Sant'Andrea Basilica, but still unique in its combination of architectural styles.

Duomo Cathedral exterior

Duomo Cathedral interior

To your right, close to the Duomo, the Ducal Palace (map 9), the enormous residence of the powerful Gonzaga family for 400 years. Built and expanded over several centuries, its 500 rooms provide a chance to travel in time, from a gigantic fresco by Pisanello of the 15th century, to halls and corridors decorated with excessive baroque details, until the masterpiece inside the Castle of San Giorgio: the Bridal Chamber, painted by Mantegna from 1465 to 1475 with an innovative technique that creates an illusion of space, opening the room to countryside scenes and to the sky above. It is so beautiful and delicate that access is restricted: better book in advance! No need to tell you that it's very easy to spend a whole afternoon in here (or a whole morning, to beat the crowd), and the Palace is so beautiful and interesting that it is time well spent.

Ducal Palace ceiling of Bridal Chamber

Ducal Palace Hall of Mirrors (Sala degli Specchi)

Last stop of the stroll: turn around the Ducal Palace to reach the Castle of San Giorgio (map 10), the park in front of it and the lakes, and end your walk with a medieval selfie. BONUS: for a view of the unique skyline, walk a little bit on the bridge opposite the castle!

Behind us, Castle of San Giorgio

Want more?
2 places to visit close to the Ducal Palace and the lake:

• Bibiena Theatre (map): this masterpiece of baroque architecture hosted Mozart in 1770, when he was just 14 years old. Worth visiting it, but it's also perfect to attend a performance there.
• Fire Brigade Museum (Galleria Storica Nazionale dei Vigili del Fuoco map): a beautiful exhibition of firefighter trucks, cars, motorcycles and even helicopters since the 1800's, very interesting and absolutely surprising!

A few minutes away from the centre:

• Casa del Mantegna (map) with its unique circular courtyard included in a square, high external wall
• Palazzo Te (map) a beautiful mannerist palace with gardens. You will be amazed by the fury of the giants in the Sala dei Giganti, decorated until the ceiling with a havoc of crumbling city and vengeful sky.

Just want to relax?

• Head to the Rio canal along Via Filippo Corridoni and by Via Pescheria for a romantic walk under the porticoes
• Get lost in the streets between Via Giuseppe Verdi and the green Piazza VIrgiliana 

Eat, drink and enjoy life:

• Have a coffee at La Bottega del Caffé, standing at the counter, Italian style! Great coffee blends and pastries, plus locals taking a break.
• Delicious gelato at Gelateria Pappa Reale, worth the walk
• Lunch at LaCucina, very Italian with a twist
• Dinner at Bottega d'Arte Gastronomica also Italian but surprising, or at Tiratappi for local cuisine: unmissable risotto with local sausage and ravioli with pumpkin filling
• Very local and rough drinks at Bar Lasagne or fancier cocktails and atmosphere at Papa's - bring insect repellant!

Make the most of your visit by hiring a guide! I am proud to recommend my aunt Francesca Camerati at Guide Virgilio, a very professional team of multi-language guides - my aunt guides in Italian, French, Spanish and English! Not only key info on history, art and architecture, but also interesting anecdotes and secret details, to make the time available even more valuable and the city even more surprising.

More useful and interesting tips by the Guardian and by Italy Magazine.

Enjoy Mantova and let us know what you think in the comments! Cheers :)

Bologna Travel Vlog - new video out!

Two lovely days in beautiful Bologna: lots of sunshine, walking, architecture, history and food! Get inspired for your next city break with our video :) 

More tips on what to do and see here and feed your hungry soul with our tips.
Looking forward to your feedback! Cheers :)

Our video in Trieste, Italy

Enjoy some warm Italian sun, gorgeous architecture, a glimpse of sea and cool live jazz music in the video of our city break in Trieste :)

And find our full itinerary here.
Let us know what you think in the comments! Cheers!

Bologna to eat

Hi! Come see the updated version of this post here: https://travellingsunglasses.com/what-to-eat-in-bologna-best-food/ 

The heart of a wealthy area, of course the food in Bologna is full of strong flavours and meat. Traditional local food in Bologna so good you may actually plan your trip around meals... like I did ;) 

Our advice:

Piadina: a round, flat bread folded in half and filled with cold cuts, cheese and vegetables. The classic is piadina with prosciutto crudo, ruccola and squaquerone cheese (very fresh and soft), but plenty of variations are available. Our favourites are La Tua Piadina in Santo Stefano and La Tua Piadina al Pratello 

Tortellini: Bologna and Modena will fight until the end of time for the ownership of this delicacy. Buy it fresh or dry in the family-run shops between Via Caprarie and Via Clavature, for example at the Paolo Atti's bakery, and order it in almost any restaurant wish butter and sage, cream, or cream and sausage. We loved it at Capra e Cavoli, on Via del Pratello 
Tigelle e crescentine: these two special types of bread are served hot in a basket together with a selection of cold cuts, cheese to spread and pickled vegetables. Delicious! We loved it at Il Circolino Trattoria Emiliana 

Hand-made pasta: not only tortellini, but also larger tortelli and ravioli, tagliatelle, and curly gramigna. The best place ever is the PastaFresca Naldi, a tiny workshop managed by three generations of women, where you order in September your tortellini for Christmas. Their pasta is served with ad-hoc hand-made sauce in a tinfoil container, and you eat it perched on high stools on a counter by the wall, in the most friendly and down-to-earth fashion. Keep some space in your stomach for the mouth-watering pannacotta and creme caramel.

Camera a Sud

Wine: the local production is Sangiovese, a simple red wine that matches perfectly meat and pasta, although the Italian selection available is obviously huge. Our favourite bars are Camera A Sud, a mix-and-match of furniture and books in the heart of the Jewish district with very helpful staff; Vineria Favalli, large selection of uncommon wines and tasty bread-and-olives snacks before dinner; Bar Modo Infoshop and Lortica, great to see the cool and hipster locals.

Coffee: paradise for espresso lovers! We recommend the unique setting over the secret canal of Bologna at the Opera Caffé e Tulipani (ask for the balcony!), and the delicious "pasticciotti" little custard cakes from Puglia (the heel of Italy) baked at I Sapori della Taranta. 

Cold cuts and cheese: don't miss mortadella, a soft white-dotted ham, and "ciccioli",  fried little bites of pork meat and everything of the pork that could not be used. Among the great local cheese, the soft and fresh stracchino and squaquerone; another Italian classic difficult to find abroad is mozzarella stracciatella, a super fresh mozzarella cheese still dripping milk when you tear it open, absolutely divine.

Pasticciotti and coffee at
I Sapori della Taranta

Aperitivo: at Caffé Zamboni, buy a drink (5-10 euros) and access the buffet for free! Pasta, meat, vegetables, cous cous, cheese, desserts... It's paradise! It's quite common in Bologna, so keep your eyes open for other places.

Bolognese Sauce: yes, it is a sauce made of minced meat, tomato sauce and other vegetables. No, it is not the bolognese sauce that you find abroad. Also not, it is not served on spaghetti, but on different types of pasta, for example tagliatelle. Most importantly, in Italian we call it "ragú". It is delicious, don't miss it!

RESTAURANTS WORTH MENTIONING

Good atmosphere, friendly and affordable for local cuisine:

Osteria dell'Orsa 

Trattoria del Rosso 

Osteria Le Sette Chiese  - tiny place, must book ahead

Osteria del Sole - a true tavern, order wine or beer at the bar and you can bring your own food! Excellent match with the pizza slices of nearby Pizzeria Due Torri
Spaccanapoli - possibly the best pizza in Bologna

BONUS: shop for designer Italian and international stuff you don't need but you can't resist at Fabrica Features

Was our advice useful during your trip? DId you eat something/somewhere else that you'll never forget? Share it with us in the comments :)

Bologna in 48 hours

Hi, thank you for stopping by!

We have launched a new blog: come find our best advice on Bologna in our updated and improved post on what to do in Bologna in 2 days.

Bologna was a very personal trip for me (Giulia), having spent 1 and a half years there during university: it was an amazing experience and I couldn't wait to show everything to Darek. This was the perfect occasion to rediscover Bologna with the eyes of a traveller and my memories in my heart. So here is our practical guide to enjoy Bologna to the fullest in a couple of days!

BOLOGNA 101

The capital of the Region of Emilia-Romagna, Bologna is a city of some 375000 people, located in the southern part of northern Italy, close to the Appennini mountains. The way it was described in the Middle Ages is still valid: "la dotta" - the learned one, because of the University that was established there in 1088, the oldest in the Western world; "la grassa" - the fat one, a very wealthy town with lots of meat in its typical dishes; "la rossa" - the red one, always leaning to the left side of politics, but also almost completely built with red bricks or painted in the tones of orange and red, and lately also the home of some excellent "red" Ferrari, Ducati, Lamborghini and Maserati.

How to get there: Ryanair, Wizzair and plenty of other airlines fly to Bologna airport, and the BLQ bus takes you straight to the city centre in 30 minutes for 6 euros (although a cab ride could be even cheaper for 2 people or more).

Where to stay: Everything you need to see, except for the Sanctuary of San Luca, is inside the old city walls, so make sure you book your accommodation there: everything will be within walking distance, saving you time and money for public transport. Airbnb provides plenty of choice, and if you search accurately you can find some incredible flats inside ancient buildings! The bus network (there is no metro) is well-organized and efficient, but the only ride you may need is around the walls with bus 33. Buy tickets at the Tobacco shops.

When to visit: Any time of the year is good to visit Bologna: Christmas lights make it magic, the porticoes protect you from the rain and keep you cool from the heat, there's plenty of festivals to keep you entertained. Keep in mind that it can snow a lot in the winter and it can be melting hot in the summer!

More info: The info point is in Piazza Maggiore square, under the porticoes opposite the basilica of San Petronio. The usual closing day of museums is Monday and small shops close for lunch from 12.30 to 15.00. There is a public wifi network, but it's not very reliable; many bars and restaurants have one, otherwise it's very cheap and simple to buy an Italian sim card with data on it.

BOLOGNA IN 48 HOURS - Top things to do and see

The feeling that Bologna transmits is accessibility: the porticoes provide plenty of space for pedestrians, the alleys cut between the trafficked main roads, bars and cafés await you with tables in the streets, but most of all, the warm tones of orange, red and yellow of almost every building make you feel at home and welcome. Some may feel claustrophobic, with the porticoes blocking the view of the sky; instead, we felt like we were walking inside a majestic ancient building the size of a city!

Lovely porticoes in Bologna

Basilica of San Petronio

The app Giracittá Bologna, a great purchase for only 5 euros (for iPhone), guided us around the city and provided plenty of interesting stories and information. Just remember to take your earphones and a power bank with you ;)

Start your first day in the heart of the city, Piazza Maggiore. The main sight is the unique gothic Basilica of San Petronio, the largest Church build in bricks in the whole world; opposite, the Palazzo del Podestá and behind it the larger Palazzo Re Enzo (government buildings); on the long side, the Town Hall, the city library Sala Borsa and the fountain of Neptune. Most of the history of Bologna, of its values and philosophy, is palpable here. Nowadays, solitary citizens with something to complain about fire up debates just by climbing on a chair and starting a speech; during the summer, the Cinema Festival "Il Cinema Ritrovato" (The rediscovered cinema" shows old movies on a huge screen, filling the square for magical summer nights.

Take your time to visit the interior of the Basilica: not only the outer facade is incomplete, also the interior decorations were stopped halfway, making it a remarkable sight. Our favourite feature: a tiny hole in the roof on the left side that lets one single sunbeam through once a year to illuminate a long, thin, metallic mark inlaid in the paving , a meridian line calculated and designed by astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini.

The Neptune under restoration

The city hall and the Sala Borsa library are welcoming and accessible places where you can wander around for a bit, exploring the contrast between the Medieval and Renaissance structures, the modern usage of the spaces and the occasional art exhibition.

When we visited, the fountain of Neptune was not visible because of restoration works. Luckily, we asked for information at the info point (under the porticoes nearby) and got ourselves a great tour with a bilingual guide. We were able to enter the working area and slowly climb up the scaffolding, look at the restorers cleaning and fixing the imposing statue of Neptune, learn lots of details about the relationships between Church and city, artists and lords, beauty and functionality. As magnificent as it is unveiled, this was definitely a much more intimate experience.

Take via Rizzoli to the two towers of Bologna, Garisenda and degli Asinelli, built in the 1100s, and don't be scared of how much Garisenda Tower is leaning. Imagine that more than 100 towers were present in the Middle ages! The view from the top is an unmissable sight, and climbing up the 498 steps inside it is an experience itself. Oh, the iconic Italian red roof tiles! They make the scenery so beautiful and harmonious, in contrast with the green rolling hills behind. Definitely my favourite city landscape in the world (to me, Giulia)!

From here there are two choices, two circles that form an 8 with the Towers in the middle.

View from Asinelli Tower,
Piazza Maggiore on the left

First (map), facing the Towers, to the right, walk down Via Santo Stefano to Saint Stephen's square with its unique Basilica with 7 interconnected churches and cloisters of different ages and styles; after the church, turn right on Via Farini, the clean and tidy fashion street with a cluster of high-end boutiques in the Galleria Cavour; turn right onto Piazza Galvani, where you can admire the unfinished Basilica San Petronio  from the back, and when you reach the main square, turn again right to Via Clavature. Together with the parallel Via degli Orefici and Via Pescherie Vecchie, and the cross street Via Drapperie, this small cluster of alleys is a lovely combination of small grocery stores with produce in the open, family-run delis selling cold cuts and hand-made pasta, and of course coffee houses. A church that goes unnoticed is Oratorio di Santa Maria della Vita (Oratory of Saint Mary of Life), a must-visit because of the Compianto (3 euros ticket, well spent), a set of statues that compose a very intense and theatrical scene of Mary, John, Mary Magdalene and other characters in shock and grief over Jesus' body. A true secret masterpiece of craftsmanship of human emotions: the movement, energy and emotion that they portray was revolutionary in the 15th century and is still shocking today - just think of how rigid and stony-faced (no pun intended :P ) is any other statue that comes to mind from those times. Down the street and to the left, or back on the main street Via Rizzoli, you will find again the Two Towers.

Second (map), facing the Towers, to the left, take the tiny alley next to the bookstore, Via de Giudei, literally Jews' Alley. The triangular maze in front of you, between Via Oberdan to the left, Via Zamboni to the right and until Via Marsala that connects the two, is the former Jewish ghetto of the 16th century, now a quiet and charming area of artisan workshops, tall buildings pressed up against each other, narrow alleys, and a special combination of Jewish and Christian history. The Synagogue is instead located in Via de Gombruti 9. 

In Via Marsala or Via delle Moline, take the right to reach Via Zamboni and the University District - Literature, Law, Economics and many more. The heart of it is Piazza Verdi, a clash of high-end citizens attending the Opera at the Teatro Comunale (the City Theatre) and broke students, sitting on the ground in the middle of the square, drinking beer and smoking joints. Established in 1088, originally in the Archiginnasio buildings by Piazza Maggiore, this is the oldest university in the Western world! It is such a feeling to walk down this street, poking inside the buildings, and imagine the amount of knowledge that has been transmitted throughout the centuries. You may have to focus a little to perceive the centuries behind us: as a modern university,  all walls are painted with graffiti, the occasional protest takes place, and you will receive offers for weed and bicycles. Museum geeks: check out the science and natural Museum of Palazzo Poggi!

Walk back up Via Zamboni to get back to the Two Towers.

Secret Venice in Bologna

MORE IN THE CITY CENTRE:

On your second day, find the urban explorer in you discovering the seven secrets of Bologna. I (Giulia) love to play with the whispering walls, however the Hidden Canal  is absolutely charming. Even more enchanting is the view from the balcony of Opera Caffé e Tulipani coffee house, perfect for a short break. The funniest secret is, without doubt, the virility of Neptune's statue in Piazza Maggiore ;)

EXTRA: the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca

Mark off from your bucket list "Walking under the longest porticoes in the world" by starting from Porta Saragozza and hiking all the way up the hill to the Church of San Luca, for some 3 kms, under 666 arches (weird, uh?). As the legend goes, students walk on their knees to ask for help to pass their exams, or after passing them thanks to some miraculous intervention.

The porticoes to San Luca

We have to admit that it was a bit demanding for us, but still worth it; as you climb, the beautiful panorama of the surrounding hills becomes visible, we felt admiration for all the family names etched in the stone who donated to restore the porticoes, and the sense of accomplishment on the top was very pleasant! A bus can take you down but it's not very frequent; we were lucky enough to find a couple of ladies who gave us a hitch back to the edge of the centre. It took us a whole afternoon - an hour from Porta Saragozza to the top - and a nap to recover afterwards.

Get lost in Bologna

The city of hidden details. You will wish you had another couple of eyes, to catch the street art on the walls (unfortunately there's also a lot of random graffiti), to admire the frescoed ceilings through the windows of private flats, and to recognize arches and columns and windows that don't match, after centuries of renovating and adapting them to new inhabitants. Take your time to lose your way, turn random corners, look at centuries-old wooden gates, iron rings where horses used to be tied to, stone letter boxes, curtains that lost their colour to years of sun... And then stop by for a quick coffee, pop inside the design stores, sniff the cold cuts and aged cheese in the delis, find frescoes hidden inside bars. We loved the southern part of the city centre: Via del Pratello and the Cathedral of San Francesco, Via Saragozza and Porta Saragozza (the street and the gate).
But most of all... eat and drink! Another post about Bologna's culinary delights will come soon!

How did you like Bologna? Is there anything unmissable that we didn't mention? Leave us a comment :)