Mantova, Italy: what to see and do

The second part of our nostalgic trip to Italy took us to Mantova, the town where my grandmother, aunt and uncle live. As a child, for me it was the town of shopping, multi-screen cinema, and unbearable summer heat; later, it became the beloved setting of the largest and most famous literature festival in Italy, Festivaletteratura, where I was a proud intern for one edition, and one of the reasons why we came: the festival brings such a special and energetic vibe to the city for 5 days, with hundreds of events in famous and hidden venues . Now and for the rest of my adult life, it will be a charming little Italian town where I will feel at home, but that will always surprise me with a detail I had not noticed before.

Mantova in 10+3 sights

You could probably spend just a day in the small city centre that blossomed during the Renaissance, in the 15th and 16th century. However, as every respectable UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the numerous hidden gems can keep you there easily for more days. Key practical advice: comfortable shoes, a scarf for ladies who wish to enter churches, and patience with the weather, as it can be very foggy during the winter and terribly hot during the summer.

The simplest sightseeing stroll is a straight line across the square-ish city centre, towards the lakes that surround three sides of it.

Start at the Teatro Sociale (map 1), where the romantic "Rio" Canal connects Superior and Inferior lakes, turning the downtown into an island.

Walk along Corso Umberto, a (almost) pedestrian street with porticoes on both sides, boutiques and cafés, as you start to imagine how it must have been living there 600 years ago. Small Piazza Andrea Mantegna square opens your view to the imposing yet perfectly fitting Basilica di Sant'Andrea (map 2), a masterpiece of Renaissance art and architecture by Leon Battista Alberti and later Filippo Juvarra. Go inside to admire the mind-blowing size of its vault, its late 18th-century decorations, and the incredible height of its dome, all gracefully hidden and adjusted from the outside.

Sant'Andrea Basilica façade

Sant'Andrea Basilica interior

Continue by the side of the church to Piazza delle Erbe (map 3). BONUS: check out the ground floor of the building right opposite the bookstore/infopoint at the corner of the church: under the columns of the porticoes, carved tiles show the items sold in the store during the Renaissance!

Beautiful Piazza delle Erbe showcases the Rotonda Church (map 4), the most ancient church in the city (you can "buy" a brick!), and the astronomical clock built in 1473 on the tower of the Palazzo della Ragione (map 5). On Thursdays, the market fills up the square and the surrounding streets.

Astronomical clock tower and Rotonda Church

Keep the square to your right, past the Palazzo del Podestá, to small Piazza Broletto Square (map 6). BONUS: take the side street to the left to reach small Piazza Leon Battista Alberti square at the back of the Basilica, where you can admire the naked bricks of its side, right below the stunning dome.

Keep going under the vault to reach the main square, Piazza Sordello Square (map 7), long and rectangular, surrounded by a frame of historical buildings that have seen 6 or 7 centuries pass by. In front of you, the Duomo (map 8), a very geometric cathedral, not as magnificent as Sant'Andrea Basilica, but still unique in its combination of architectural styles.

Duomo Cathedral exterior

Duomo Cathedral interior

To your right, close to the Duomo, the Ducal Palace (map 9), the enormous residence of the powerful Gonzaga family for 400 years. Built and expanded over several centuries, its 500 rooms provide a chance to travel in time, from a gigantic fresco by Pisanello of the 15th century, to halls and corridors decorated with excessive baroque details, until the masterpiece inside the Castle of San Giorgio: the Bridal Chamber, painted by Mantegna from 1465 to 1475 with an innovative technique that creates an illusion of space, opening the room to countryside scenes and to the sky above. It is so beautiful and delicate that access is restricted: better book in advance! No need to tell you that it's very easy to spend a whole afternoon in here (or a whole morning, to beat the crowd), and the Palace is so beautiful and interesting that it is time well spent.

Ducal Palace ceiling of Bridal Chamber

Ducal Palace Hall of Mirrors (Sala degli Specchi)

Last stop of the stroll: turn around the Ducal Palace to reach the Castle of San Giorgio (map 10), the park in front of it and the lakes, and end your walk with a medieval selfie. BONUS: for a view of the unique skyline, walk a little bit on the bridge opposite the castle!

Behind us, Castle of San Giorgio

Want more?
2 places to visit close to the Ducal Palace and the lake:

• Bibiena Theatre (map): this masterpiece of baroque architecture hosted Mozart in 1770, when he was just 14 years old. Worth visiting it, but it's also perfect to attend a performance there.
• Fire Brigade Museum (Galleria Storica Nazionale dei Vigili del Fuoco map): a beautiful exhibition of firefighter trucks, cars, motorcycles and even helicopters since the 1800's, very interesting and absolutely surprising!

A few minutes away from the centre:

• Casa del Mantegna (map) with its unique circular courtyard included in a square, high external wall
• Palazzo Te (map) a beautiful mannerist palace with gardens. You will be amazed by the fury of the giants in the Sala dei Giganti, decorated until the ceiling with a havoc of crumbling city and vengeful sky.

Just want to relax?

• Head to the Rio canal along Via Filippo Corridoni and by Via Pescheria for a romantic walk under the porticoes
• Get lost in the streets between Via Giuseppe Verdi and the green Piazza VIrgiliana 

Eat, drink and enjoy life:

• Have a coffee at La Bottega del Caffé, standing at the counter, Italian style! Great coffee blends and pastries, plus locals taking a break.
• Delicious gelato at Gelateria Pappa Reale, worth the walk
• Lunch at LaCucina, very Italian with a twist
• Dinner at Bottega d'Arte Gastronomica also Italian but surprising, or at Tiratappi for local cuisine: unmissable risotto with local sausage and ravioli with pumpkin filling
• Very local and rough drinks at Bar Lasagne or fancier cocktails and atmosphere at Papa's - bring insect repellant!

Make the most of your visit by hiring a guide! I am proud to recommend my aunt Francesca Camerati at Guide Virgilio, a very professional team of multi-language guides - my aunt guides in Italian, French, Spanish and English! Not only key info on history, art and architecture, but also interesting anecdotes and secret details, to make the time available even more valuable and the city even more surprising.

More useful and interesting tips by the Guardian and by Italy Magazine.

Enjoy Mantova and let us know what you think in the comments! Cheers :)